All Aboard the Adventure: Why Trains in Japan Are Pure Family Magic

— By Maggie Downs —

The melodic chime floated through Tokyo Station just as our Shinkansen slid into view, silent and impossibly smooth, like it was gliding on air. My 10-year-old son, Everest, stood frozen in awe, eyes tracing the sleek white bullet train as it stretched far beyond either end of the platform.

“It looks like a spaceship,” he whispered.

I felt it too. Standing there with my husband, swept into the tide of brisk-footed commuters and travelers with rolling suitcases, buzzing lights overhead with the scent of fried foods and brewed tea in the air. I stared at this gleaming marvel of engineering — and for a moment, it did actually feel like we were about to launch into another world.

Moments later, we were hurtling through the Japanese countryside at nearly 200 miles per hour, watching small towns and rice fields blur into watercolor smears while Everest demolished a Shinkansen-shaped candy box from the snack cart. This wasn’t just transportation; this was the stuff of childhood dreams.

The Train Became the Trip

Before our two-week family adventure, which took us through Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto, Nara, and Osaka, I’d read practical guides about visiting Japan. Then I carefully mapped out temples, neighborhood sights, and udon shops, assuming the train would simply get us from one point to another. 

We live in the California desert, where we don’t have a good system of public transportation, so I knew the rail system in Japan — famously fast and efficient — would be a novelty for us. But the real magic, I figured, would begin once we reached our destinations.

I was wrong. The trains themselves quickly became one of the trip’s biggest highlights. They were not just a way to travel, but a joy all their own. 

The Art of Effortless Movement

At first glance, Japan’s trains looked like an intricate web of timetables, transfers, and unspoken rules. Frankly, I was intimidated. I worried we’d be fumbling through stations, second-guessing signs, and missing connections.

But once on the ground, it all clicked. Google Maps guided us with shocking accuracy. Color-coded signs, English-language announcements, and helpful station staff kept us moving with confidence.

After a few rides, we found our rhythm: Tap the IC card (prepaid smart cards used for transportation and other payments), follow the arrows, board the right car, and settle in. No traffic, no hunting for parking in a foreign city. Just time together, watching the world go by.

Tip: Buy rechargeable IC cards at the airport or a major station. Kids under 6 ride free; older children get discounted fares. If you’re doing extensive travel, a Japan Rail Pass can be worth it — use the fare calculator on the Japan Rail website to see if the pass will save you money.

Where the Train Is the Playground

The stations alone deserved some time in the itinerary. Tokyo Station felt almost like a theme park, boasting capsule toy machines, anime-themed snacks, incredible bento displays, souvenir shops with fun characters, and bakery counters so gorgeous they looked like art galleries. 

Plus when a national holiday shuttered most restaurants in Kyoto, it was the station that saved us. We stumbled into a conveyor-belt sushi spot still buzzing with life, turned dinner into a game, and watched Everest light up with every passing plate. 

Tip: Don’t overlook train stations as dining hubs. Many stations house entire food halls with options from ramen to French pastries, and a great kids’ meal is often just a few steps away.

The Low Points (and What We Learned)

Of course, not every ride in Japan was wonderful. We learned the hard way to avoid rush hour after a white-knuckle experience being squeezed into a packed train car by Tokyo’s infamous “train pushers” — uniformed employees who physically shove people into already full cars. I felt like hot dog meat being forced into the casing.

In the crush of people, I teetered on the edge of a panic attack. But this also showed us the remarkable civility of Japanese commuters, who made room for Everest and even helped guide us off the train at our stop.

After that, we avoided the 7 to 9 a.m. and 5 to 7 p.m. windows and found the trains blissfully spacious during off hours.

Another challenge: the sheer size of major stations like Shinjuku or Ueno. What Google Maps called a “five-minute transfer” often meant speed-walking through subterranean corridors that seemed to multiply as we moved. On one exhausting night in Shinjuku, Everest nearly fell asleep walking. Spirits were low until we spotted a vending machine filled with collectible train toys. Our frustrating detour suddenly became a treasure hunt.

Tip: Give yourself buffer time for transfers in big stations. They can take longer than expected, especially with kids. And embrace the vending machines; they’re everywhere and full of surprises.

A Train Designed for Joy

On day five, we boarded the Romancecar from Shinjuku to Hakone. With its sweeping windows and plush seating, it felt more like a sightseeing lounge than public transit. Everest claimed the front seat like a junior conductor, narrating every tunnel and bridge we passed.

Even our shortest rides were memorable. We squealed over themed trains,  like the Hello Kitty Shinkansen, and stopped to admire every snack stand with regional specialties. Everest turned these snack breaks into tasting tours. Curry buns, melon pan, chewy mochi, and other treats all became part of our travel story.

Tip: If your child loves trains, consider visiting the Kyoto Railway Museum or the Railway Museum in Saitama near Tokyo. And don’t miss the themed trains. Check local rail lines for seasonal or character-branded rides.

Finding Our Family Flow

By the second week in Japan, we’d figured it out. We packed light with carry-ons only, since Japanese trains aren’t made for giant roller bags. We learned to forward our luggage when needed, so our suitcases awaited us at the next hotel, as if by magic. We followed Everest’s lead with IC card tapping and snack scouting. He even developed a soundtrack, humming the melodic departure chimes from different stations.

We didn’t need screens or phones. The movement, the windows, the trains themselves were the entertainment. 

Tip: Luggage forwarding service (called takkyubin) is widely available at many hotels, airports, and convenience stores. It’s a lifesaver if you’re traveling with large bags.

Leaving Japan: A Journey We Didn’t Want to End

What surprised me most was how the trains slowed us down in the very best way. We had space to talk, to sit quietly together, to marvel at the scenery instead of just trying to reach the next stop. Everest asked big questions. My husband, who is Japanese-American, shared stories from his own childhood. As we explored Japan, we weren’t just sightseeing; we were seeing each other.

Even the smallest moments — a fellow passenger offering Everest a candy, a station worker waving as we boarded — became little sparks of connection.

On our final ride to Kansai International Airport, Everest pressed his face to the window and whispered, “I’m going to miss the trains.” 

So was I. Because somewhere between Tokyo and Osaka, we’d discovered what travel is really about. Not just where you go, but how you get there, and all the little joys that come along for the ride.

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About the Author: Maggie Downs is a travel writer based in the California desert. She’s the author of the memoir “Braver Than You Think” and a guide to gentle family adventures, “50 Things to Do Before You’re Five.” Her work also appears in the Wall Street Journal, National Geographic, the New York Times, and McSweeney’s, among many other publications. Find her at BeBackByDinner.substack.com or on Instagram @maggieink.