Spain’s Andalusia region offers travelers a captivating mix of natural wonders alongside unique historic and cultural attractions. The south of Spain is home to many of the touchstones for which Spain is known. There’s flamenco, bullfighting, standout culinary offerings, and monumental architectural wonders — some left over from centuries of Muslim rule.
Spain is the second most-visited country in the world, only behind France, and securely ahead of the United States in 2024, according to the United Nations World Tourism Organization. Andalusia is home to nearly 8 million people, making it the most populous of Spain’s 17 autonomous communities. It’s larger than Switzerland, with a huge diversity of landscapes from mountains and deserts to nearly 900 miles of coastline along the Mediterranean Sea.
It’s easy enough to get to the south of Spain with either direct flights to Malaga’s international airport or via high-speed train from Madrid’s airport. Traveling between the larger cities of the region — Seville, Malaga, Cordoba, and Granada — is easy by train.
But my adult daughter Madeline and I wanted to visit some smaller towns as well and realized a road trip would give us more flexibility. Madeline was the driver for this trip, and she picked up the rental car at the Malaga airport.
Here are some of the highlights of our road trip, along with some tips on driving in Spain.
Favorite Andalusia Stops
Parador de Malaga Gibralfaro
I planned the trip to Andalusia for March, when I expected to trade Chicago’s still wintry weather for the more temperate climate and sunshine along the famed Costa del Sol. We based our stay in short-term rental units, one in Marbella, a luxury beach destination with a pedestrian friendly old town, and the other in Malaga, a larger city that’s closer to the international airport and filled with museums and attractions to keep you busy for days.
We didn’t really need the car for getting around within either Marbella or Malaga. Walking suited us just fine for most things, but taxis and Ubers are plentiful. For day trips to outlying towns, the car was the way to go.
First Up: Gibraltar
Ocean views from Gibraltar with Africa in the distance
We were there for all things Spanish, but it was impossible to skip Gibraltar, the British Overseas Territory about 50 miles from Marbella, where we had our first rental house.
Monkeying around in Gibraltar
Make sure to bring your passports with you because you leave Spain behind when you cross into Gibraltar.
We rode the cable car to the top of the famous rock. The tickets are pricey for the six-minute ride up about 1,300 feet, but it’s worth the money.
From the stunning lookouts at the top, you can see all the way to Africa, the mountains of northern Morocco. And you might encounter some of the Barbary Macaques, the only wild monkey population in Europe.
We saw just one monkey, during our descent in the cable car, but larger groups are often seen up top.
After visiting the top of the famous rock, we stopped by a restaurant advertising a full English breakfast. It felt quirky but fun to be experiencing British culture after a short ride through the Spanish countryside.
Ronda
A view from Terri’s Ronda lunch spot
Another outstanding day trip from Marbella is Ronda, about 40 miles north. The drive through the Sierra de la Nieves Nature Park typically takes about an hour.
Perched atop a deep gorge over the Guadalevin River, Ronda is well known for its dramatic landscape and historic bridges that separate the parts of the town.
The cliffside location is stunning, and the main reason I wanted to visit. But Ronda is also home to the Plaza de Toros bullfighting ring, one of the oldest in Spain, dating to the late 1700s.
We parked in a lot at the edge of the old town and wandered the cobbled streets and shops, awed by the views and thrilled at our stop for lunch at a restaurant with a cliffside balcony. It was one of those pinch-me moments of travel. The views were spectacular, the food was good, but being in that moment was simply terrific. It was hard to stop taking photos.
After we moved on to our lodging in Malaga, there were two must see places for day trips, the small town of Nerja, about 35 miles away, and the famed Alhambra in Granada, about 90 miles from Malaga.
You could do two separate day trips, but we decided to combine them in one overnight excursion, meeting a friend for the evening along the way.
Nerja
A Nerja beach view
This charming beachfront town along the Costa del Sol was a surprise, and I’m anxious for a return trip and longer stay. With a population of about 22,000 people, about 30% expats, Nerja is easy to navigate, but it’s large enough to support a variety of activities, restaurants, and shops.
Terri’s daughter Madeline takes a selfie in Nerja
It’s famous for the Cuevas de Nerja, caves just outside of town, formed about 5 million years ago. Prehistoric cave paintings share top billing with what is said to be the largest stalactite in the world, more than 100 feet tall.
We didn’t have enough time to both visit the caves and wander around Nerja’s old town and the famed Balcon de Europe. We chose the latter and will definitely return to tour the caves and spend more time in this engaging town.
The Balcon de Europa (balcony to Europe), the famed Nerja landmark and open-air promenade overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, is a spacious and spectacular plaza lined with benches and palm trees and a statue of King Alfonso XII. He is said to have given the spot its name because of the lovely sea views.
It’s easy to spend time there, feeling the sea breeze and people watching as local musicians captivate the visitors. Beaches are just below the promenade with cafes, bars, and restaurants just steps away. We sipped cocktails and enjoyed the vibe at an outdoor cafe right at the plaza. Next time we’ll stay longer so we can linger until sunset.
Granada and the Alhambra
Large crowds visit the Alhambra every year
About 60 miles north of Nerja is the city of Granada and one of Spain’s most visited tourist sites, the Alhambra palace and fortress, dating to the 13th Century.
It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, exemplifying the peak of Islamic Architecture in Europe.
Travel tip: You need to book your tickets for the Alhambra months in advance. And you need to bring your passport for entry. They won’t let you in without it, even if you have reserved tickets.
Upwards of 2 million people visit the Alhambra every year, so you’ll want to time your trip to avoid the crowds. We arrived mid-morning on a Wednesday in March and did not face long lines or difficulty finding a parking place. There are outdoor parking lots near the entrance, and the closest spots fill up first. Rates are hourly and cost about 3 Euros per hour, payable at a machine.
You could spend at least half a day, maybe more, wandering through the gardens and buildings that make up the Alhambra, learning about medieval engineering, marveling at the ancient carvings and other artwork that adorn the palace and learning about the history it represents.
There are reasons so many people visit. It’s a not-to-be-missed experience.
Flamenco in Malaga
Marbella and Malaga are also both worth a stop on any road trip through Andalusia.
Both are seaside cities, but Marbella is smaller with more of a beachy vibe. There’s a terrific walkable old town. But also make sure to wander along the waterfront and stop at a restaurant for fresh seafood and cocktails, just in time for sunset over the sea.
Malaga is home to more than 500,000 people, and it has the big city attractions that come with that size. During our time in Malaga, we booked a Flamenco show, a sunset cruise from the harbor, a visit to a traditional Arab hammam and tickets to multiple museums dedicated to native son Pablo Picasso. There were many outstanding restaurants and terrific people watching.
We didn’t like driving around the city, but taxis and Ubers are plentiful if you want to do as we did (leave the car mostly parked for the days we spent in town).
Andalusia General Driving Tips
It’s often recommended that you get an international driving permit when you want to rent a car in Spain. My daughter did but was never asked for it during the rental process. It would be helpful to do a quick bit of online research on highway road signs, because not all the signs are clear at first glance. Check out Spain’s official tourism website for more information on driving in the country.
We found most of the highways in Andalusia to be good, with few delays due to bad roads or road construction — typically some of the biggest reasons for traffic jams in the U.S.
When you’re off the highway, remember that the ancient towns, which are so quaint and attractive to tourists, were laid out long before automobiles were invented. Driving on very narrow, sometimes zigzagging and hilly streets can be nightmarish. Go slow. Consider parking a little farther away from the center and walking in.
Our biggest complaint had to do with parking lots. Even in modern facilities, the parking spaces and room between rows of cars was maddeningly small. There was a lot of maneuvering to get out of a space. Keep that in mind when you’re at the rental desk and they offer a free upgrade to a large vehicle. Here, smaller is less of a headache.
A lesser (but still important) note on transportation: Having a car also gave driver Madeline the chance to seek out her favorite morning drink.
My drink of choice is coffee, but Madeline was on a mission to find the best matcha latte in all of Andalusia. Across five different cities and towns she sampled drinks at about 10 places before finding the winner at BOLO Specialty Coffee & Bread in Malaga. When prepping the drink, the friendly owners hit the mark by mixing in the perfect amount of high-quality ceremonial grade matcha.
A Note About Andalusia Weather
Rain in Marbella
Anyone paying attention knows that weather conditions all over the world are changing. And what once was a pretty sure thing, no longer is guaranteed. I chose Andalusia for my month-long trip in March because I’m from Chicago, where March is usually cold and sometimes snowy.
Andalusia boasts of its mild climate and sunny days, with an average of just four rainy days in March. That’s what I was hoping for, but it was not to be. It rained so much when I was in Marbella that the mountain road to Ronda was washed away. We had to take an alternate route that took us three times as long to get there.
The point is, you can’t count on the weather, so try to be flexible. Still, the best times to visit the south of Spain are spring and fall, but of course no guarantees. I was there a few years ago when April temperatures approached 100 degrees.
But don’t let that keep you at home.
Photos by Terri Colby
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About the Author: Terri Colby is a veteran Chicago journalist who traded hard news for writing about her world travels more than a decade ago. Her now-grown children have shared her journeys across the U.S. and around the world, nowadays filling in as drivers. Her work has appeared in the Chicago Tribune, Los Angeles Times, AAA magazines, AARP, Porthole Cruise & Travel, and LuxeBeat Magazine. Find her at imsleepingaround.com and on Instagram @finding_the_wonder.
