Retrospective: A 2019 Solo Road Trip in Colorado’s Western Slope

I have a confession… While I work as an editor here at Road Trips for Families, I’ve only taken one “real” road trip myself. It was back in May 2019, which didn’t feel that long ago until recently.

My life is a lot different now. In September 2020, around 15 months after this road trip, I moved out of my home state of Colorado to Los Angeles. I’ve lived in Hollywood all five years since, two of those with no car (sometimes challenging in such a massive, car-centric city).

I often look back on that road trip with admiration (perhaps a little envy) of my younger self — the freedom to travel hundreds of miles to Colorado’s Western Slope on a whim and a pivotal memory fostering my ongoing pursuit of outdoor adventure. Since I don’t think I’ll be planning another road trip any time soon, I decided to take a trip down memory lane (with the help of my hefty Instagram story archive).

2019 Flashback: Finding My Footing in Denver

In May 2019, I had lived in Denver for nearly one year. I was renting a studio in  Capitol Hill, Denver’s most populous neighborhood. I was still somewhat new to the big city life after moving from Fort Collins, my college town and home for years after (only about 10 miles from where I lived growing up). I originally thought that my motivations around this trip were something like, “better explore the state while I’m still here,” but that’s not right. I didn’t decide to move to California until later in 2019.

This was an impulsive choice: I committed to the solo road trip about two weeks prior, and the motive was far less poetic. A scheduling fluke at work randomly gave me four consecutive days off, summer was upon us, and I didn’t want to waste that time off.

My parents were always outdoor enthusiasts, often trying to foster that same joy in my sister and me. I knew Colorado was known for scenic qualities, but I didn’t truly appreciate it for myself (ironically) until a few years before I left.

A Solo Road Trip’s Impact

I now recognize this solo road trip as a foundational moment, reminding me just how much I love outdoor recreation as an adult.

Later that summer, I skipped Independence Day celebrations in the city to camp instead. I also climbed my first fourteener. The next summer, my options to soak in my home state before moving were limited by the pandemic. I compromised through near-weekly hikes, with a select few friends in my quarantine circle.

This experience probably helped fuel my drive to visit a friend living in California for my birthday in October 2019, a visit that confirmed my decision to move there.

(Hastily) Planning a Solo Road Trip

I’d done plenty of camping, but never alone. I was curious to try and open to longer drives. I only considered places I hadn’t visited. The short notice meant fewer reservations and more limited options. It was just after Memorial Day weekend so I wasn’t totally out of luck.

Tip: Many of Colorado’s top camping spots have walk-in options, but it’s risky to bank on them — especially during peak seasons. Even reservations can fill up fast, so start looking ASAP to avoid missing out on any of your top picks. Many national parks book out up to six months in advance.

If you can help it, give yourself more than two weeks (at least a month, if not several, depending on your preferred destination).

I settled on two nearby spots on the other side of the state, Colorado’s Western Slope, an immense region starting just west of Denver and covering most of the state up to the Utah border. I looked toward the state’s southwest corner, specifically Ridgway State Park and Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park (with some side quests along the way).

After reserving my campsites, I linked up with my parents to snag some camping essentials. The day before I left, I stopped by Jiffy Lube for an oil change. I was winging it, but I was ready.

Wednesday, May 29, 2019

Start: Capitol Hill, Denver

End: Ridgway State Park, Ouray County

Drive time: Five-and-a-half hours

Stops: Ouray

My Kia Soul was already packed, so I only had to brush my teeth and get dressed before hitting the road around 4:15 a.m.

You have two options to get to Ridgway State Park from Denver, both about the same length of time depending on traffic. I took I-70, a straight shot west before eventually heading south, on the drive there. I could take Highways 285 and 50 on the way back to Denver — might as well for some variety.

Tip: Traveling from Denver? Leave early to avoid traffic. Nearby highways can easily back up as major junctions for commuters, tourists, and truck drivers. After about 7 a.m., it’s likely you’ll endure some bumper-to-bumper action.

Just after 5, I was surrounded by mountains and making great time. In fact, I was cruising a little too efficiently… As I was closing in on Grand Junction, about an hour of driving to go, I saw police lights behind me. I looked at my speedometer and realized I was going 82 in a 65 mph zone. About 20 minutes later, I stopped by a gas station humbled by my first (and only to this day) speeding ticket.

Let my mistake be a lesson: Eventually, the highway will be vacant, and you can easily lose track of how fast you’re going. With fewer cars on the road, speeding will absolutely get you pulled over.

Ouray

I was in proximity to Ridgway by around 10 a.m, so I drove an extra 20 minutes to Ouray.

My family took a trip to Telluride when I was 11, located on the other side of the mountains towering over Ouray to the west. My memories are fuzzy, but I primarily recall the scenery. While Telluride has a population of around 2,500, Ouray is even smaller at approximately 900 people — no surprise once you’re actually there.

You’ll see the “Welcome to Ouray” sign heading south before Highway 550 shifts into Main Street. Roughly another mile and you start to enter the thick of Ouray. It’s about six blocks by six blocks; I only had a few hours to get some food and walk around, so Ouray was ideal.

Ouray Eats

My first stop was Ouray Wing Company. I’m vegan, and I figured that it may be challenging to find plentiful options in such small towns. Thankfully, I was able to modify one of their burritos to fit my diet. The restaurant is now closed, but Ouray Brewery may have been a better bet anyway. Just down the block on Main Street, they have a substantial menu including Impossible patties and vegan-friendly salads (with a modification or two). As someone who regularly turns to Thai restaurants in Los Angeles for vegan take out, Thai Chili would have been another safe alternative.

While my options in Ouray may be fairly limited, it has tons of restaurants to satisfy your cravings.

For a fine dining experience with contemporary American cuisine, check out Brickhouse 737 and Taste Ouray. You’ll also find Artisan Bakery, jam-packed with savory and sweet breakfast treats. If you’re in the mood for pizza, Corkscrew Tavern Pizzeria has you covered. Mi Mexico is in the mix for travelers craving tacos, burritos, and the like.

I also stopped by Mouses Chocolates & Coffee before heading out to Ridgway. Unfortunately, I didn’t sample either of their titular products and settled for an herbal tea to calm my stomach after downing gas station coffee all morning. The atmosphere was a highlight, proving the calming vibes I needed alongside spectacular views.

Ouray Shopping and Activities

Naturally, most of Ouray’s shopping caters to tourists.

You’ll find a number of souvenir stores stocked with Ouray merch, along with gift shops like Bloom Modern Mercantile and Chief Ouray Trading Post. I wasn’t really in the market for their wares like jewelry, home decor, and locally made art. But if you’re after something truly unique, these are some great places to peruse.

I spent most of my time at RB Horsetraders antique shop. I didn’t walk away with anything, but soaking in all of their artifacts from years past was enough for me. I also stopped by Columbine Mineral Shop to admire the many minerals found within the Rocky Mountain Region.

For those making a day (or more) of it, Ouray has a number of parks, hot springs, and trails nearby for travelers eager to explore its surroundings.

It also hosts more niche spots like the Ouray Alchemist Pharmacy Museum, where you can “take a guided tour back in time” to experience the pharmacies of the Wild West filled with hand-blown pharmacy bottles filled with their original drugs collected over 50 years.

Ridgway State Park

After recharging in Ouray, I zipped over to Ridgway State Park a little after noon — just a 20 minute drive. Ridgway Reservoir is a key feature, with stunning views of the San Juan Mountains throughout the park.

My plan for Ridgway? Ease in with a balance of relaxation and exploration. I took advantage of the hiking, as Ridgway State Park comes with 15.6 miles of trails with access to more than 40 miles of additional trails via the Ridgway Area Trail and Dennis Weaver Trail systems.

For those after more, Ridgway offers water activities like boating, water skiing, swimming, paddleboarding, fishing, and kayaking on the reservoir.

The park offers year-round camping with 253 sites for RVs, trailers, and tents, including ADA-accessible and walk-in options. I’ve almost always camped in tents and did for this trip.

When I climbed a fourteener later that summer, I invited my first (and to this day only) yurt camping experience. Had I decided to try it out sooner, Ridgway would have been a solid contender with its reservable yurts.

Afternoon rain is typical in Colorado during the spring and summer. Regardless, I was dismayed once the light drizzle arrived, fluctuating in intensity until after I went to bed. I was able to keep a fire to enjoy through the evening (largely from the cover of my tent).

With another day ahead of me and some light hiking plans in the morning, I called it a night around 11 and fell asleep to a movie preloaded on my laptop.

Tip: Colorado is prone to wildfires. Depending on the risk at a given time, campfires may not be permitted in Ridgway and other parks. Check online or ask a park ranger before banking on it.

Camping Rates

Tent camping sites: From $28/night
Electric hookup sites: From $36/night
Full hookup sites: From $41/night
Yurt camping sites: From $90/night

Day 2

Thursday, May 30, 2019

Start: Ridgway State Park

End: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Montrose County

Drive time: 40 minutes

Stops: Montrose

I woke up early with the sun and took my time at my campsite. After a small breakfast and wandering the trails a bit more, I packed up for my second primary destination: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. But first, lunch.

Montrose

Montrose is far larger and more populated than Ouray, with around 21,000 total residents. I hadn’t planned to visit ahead of time. Rather, it was my best option to grab food and fill up on gas as I made my way up Highway 550 to pivot east on Highway 50 for Black Canyon.

Montrose also came with some gorgeous views, surrounded by the Uncompahgre Plateau to the west and the same snow-capped San Juan Mountains I admired in Ridgway.

Montrose Eats

I was met with similar challenges finding vegan options in Montrose. (Bear in mind, this was 2019. I imagine Montrose and other communities in the area likely offer more plant-based options today.)

Like Ouray (and most cities in Colorado), Montrose has a collection of breweries with sizable food menus. Colorado Boy Pizzeria & Brewery, Pomona Brewing Company, and Horsefly Brewing Company are a few standouts.

If I had done a more thorough search after regaining cell service in Montrose, I might have enjoyed the Nepali and Indian cuisine at Himalayan Pun Hill Kitchen.

Maybe not the best for vegans, but Montrose also has a collection of steakhouses and Latin-inspired options.

I went with a burger joint that had veggie patties. I wasn’t blown away, but the city had me spoiled. Truly, I was just happy to have some real fuel for hiking later. I can’t confirm with any certainty what restaurant this was, with only a hazy memory and one blurry photo of my feast to reference.

Montrose Shopping and Activities

Unlike Ouray, Montrose was a brief stop. It’s not that there wasn’t anything to do. In fact, it’s the opposite: I had limited time, wanted to get to Black Canyon, and efficiently making my way through Montrose wasn’t realistic.

There’s hiking and fishing nearby, but if you don’t want to stray too far, the Historic Downtown should be on your list. Here, you’ll find some of Montrose’s shopping highlights: from fashionable retailers like SheShe Boutique and Luxe Designs to the local handmade gifts at shops like Mosaic or the abundant hidden treasures at Country Flair Antique Emporium.

Montrose also boasts several history museums, including Ute Indian Museum, Museum of the Mountain West, and Montrose Country Historical Museum.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

I made it to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park just before noon. While Ridgway was a solid initial stop, it was clear I saved the best for last.

Black Canyon was the most memorable part of this trip. I hadn’t (and still haven’t) been to the Grand Canyon, but the sheer immensity of this natural wonder gave me a taste. In fact, many refer to Black Canyon as “Colorado’s Grand Canyon.” The name was inspired by the black shadows often shrouding the canyon walls. It features some of the world’s oldest exposed Precambrian rock, dating back nearly 2 billion years.

I was in awe almost immediately, the incredibly steep cliffs greeting me as I drove to my campsite. The Gunnison River and natural forces carved the canyon over millions of years, allowing campers and hikers to peer approximately 2,000 feet below throughout the park.

The Trip Highlight: Hiking Black Canyon

Eager to hike, I quickly set up my campsite before hitting the trails. I’m not sure how many miles I trekked that day, but I started around 12:30 and found myself back at my campsite around 4:30 p.m.

I’ll turn to the source material to describe how it felt: my testimony at the time via Instagram.

Just after I started hiking at 1 p.m., I shared my sentiments on a photo of the canyon, “This was a [great] stop. I feel [very] small… in like an empowering way,” then a video, “I’m blown away but also kinda horrified.”

It was one of those instances in nature where I felt more grounded in my humanity, confronting one of the planet’s countless feats full force.

I made my way around the one-mile Rim Rock Nature Trail, a relatively flat path along the canyon’s rim, and then the two-mile Oak Flat Loop Trail, which comes with views of the landscape below the canyon rim.

The second trail’s route was very narrow and steep, acting as a solid reminder to take it slow and soak everything in safely. While I had no problem, I would hesitate to recommend the Oak Flat Loop Trail to families with younger hikers.

The inner canyon has no maintained or marked trails. I wasn’t prepared, but experienced hikers who plan ahead may consider it.

Hiking is the main action at Black Canyon, and you’ll likely spot some wildlife. While relaxing at my campsite that evening, I looked over to see a doe greeting me in the thick of the wilderness. I didn’t see any bears during my stay, but they are surely in the area (as indicated by the bear lockers at each campsite, which I absolutely used for any food and beverages).

Camping Rates

North Rim and East Portal Campground: $20/day; tent camping, reservations not required
South Rim Campground: $34 (electric) and $20 (non-electric/day); reservations required

Day 3

Friday, May 31, 2019

Start: Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park

End: Capitol Hill, Denver

Drive time: Five hours

Heading Home

Next, the second-longest stretch of driving on the trip to cross the finish line.

I was up around 6:30 a.m. and stayed for about an hour before the drive commenced. Exiting the park and hitting the highway, I felt lighter and refreshed — precisely what I wanted out of this adventure.

The drive to Denver was largely uneventful, though I appreciated the fresh scenery heading east on Highway 50 before pivoting north on Highway 115. As incredible this journey was, I was relieved to see the Denver city skyline.

My cats greeted me as I threw my bags on my bed, peeled off my clothes, and took a much-needed shower. That afternoon was mostly spent in bed, relishing in my sore muscles and thanking my past self for diligently applying sunscreen.

Six Years Later…

Looking back, I feel a certain pride for my younger self. I was blissfully unaware of the adventures that would follow — during my last year in Colorado, navigating a solo move across the country during a global pandemic, and everything that came after.

I recognize a similar curiosity in myself then that’s only grown with time. In my early LA days with limited community and abundant COVID restrictions, I took any and every opportunity to take a drive and explore my new home. I still jump on all opportunities, big or small, to lean into any potential escapade that presents itself in my daily life.

The next road trip will have to wait until I secure a car (and I’m fairly content without one for now). Until then, I’ll continue to fondly look back at this road trip — walking, biking, or bussing — with that same sense of wonder I fostered in May 2019.

Photos by Keegan Williams 

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About the Author: Keegan Williams is a freelance editor and writer based in Los Angeles. They have written for publications including HuffPost, LGBTQ Nation, and High Times. Keegan has a passion for fitness. They are also immersed in LA’s underground dance scene and dabble as a DJ with a focus on percussive, high-energy techno and electronic music genres.

You can find them at keeganmwilliams.com or on Instagram @promwitch.