‘Fall’ in Love with New England This Season

— By Laurie Bain Wilson —

There’s more to autumn in this neck of the woods than brilliant oaks, maples, and birch trees.

Sitting in a car for hours inching along a traffic-jammed route to see the changing leaves — without being able to jump into a pile — only for the kids to enjoy them for a short time can feel like a tease, if not a bit monotonous. 

Fortunately, there are tons of less obvious ideas for families to enjoy the season. From flannel weather, pumpkins, vibrant cranberry bogs, haunted houses, iconic bookstores, easy hiking trails, and (of course) colorful leaves, there’s no shortage of fall fun in New England. Better yet, you can make alternative plans without schlepping along popular routes with every other leaf peeper… not that there’s anything wrong with that!

Fall is the best time to explore New England. Like the leaves, rates at many New England inns and resorts are falling from summer peak season. It’s also comfort food season, meaning beef stews, hearty seafood chowders, savory cocktails, apple cobblers, and more — not to mention, fireplace season!

Here, some off-the-beaten-foliage-path ideas for where to blaze that trail this autumn, in the spirit of New England’s iconic trailblazers.

Maine

Mid- and Southern-coastal Maine are good bets to plan a trip for this fall in the Pine Tree State. There, the leaves turn later than farther north where they’ve already begun their journey. And you’ll get the best of both worlds: the seacoast and the trees with plenty of kid activities, too.

Cape Neddick is a fall phenom, a tiny coastal town in York that’s on the map for stunning scenery and lobstering. Hike the Cliff Walk in York for spellbinding rocky beaches and coastline views. Fisherman’s Walk is another fun spot with Wiggly Bridge, a suspension bridge that kids can jump on to make it wiggle. There’s also Marginal Way in nearby Ogunquit: a paved, mile-long coastal path with benches and scenic views of whitecaps and wildflowers.

Take fall classes (for adults and children) at Stonewall Kitchen’s Cooking School in York. Visit Nubble Lighthouse, off the coast of York, is a beacon of kid-friendly fun; come for a sunset picnic and wear your red flannel shirts to complement the red lighthouse for that Christmas card photo. The sweet spot: Hit York Beach’s historic Goldenrod candy shop, attracting visitors with its saltwater taffy since 1896. 

Stay

Cliff House Maine

The family-friendly Cliff House Maine in Cape Neddick wows with awe-inspiring views from its eagle’s perch on Bald Head Cliff. In fact, the scene upon arrival in the lobby is so moving, one recent visitor said she cried when she walked in and experienced the ocean view, it is that powerful. The Sleepaway Bunk Suite sleeps up to six and has a private balcony with Atlantic Ocean views. There are also many guest rooms and suites with fireplaces.

The Tiller Restaurant has theatrical ocean scenes out the floor to ceiling windows, and kids love Nubb’s Lobster Shack, which serves one of the best lobster rolls in Maine. Plus, an outdoor hot tub and indoor and outdoor heated saltwater pools are open year-round. 

Huttopia

And then there’s glamping. Huttopia in Sanford, Maine, near Wells, south of Portland, is a canvas for leaf peeping strolls and solid sleeps under a canopy of painted leaves. The brand is French family-owned, so expect lots of French influences: from crepes on the menu at the bistro and café and the game of pétanque that’s played on the designated court.

With a deep freshwater pond for kayaking, and a mature forest is spot-on for forest bathing, the United Nations World Tourism Organization recognizes Huttopia as a global leader in ecotourism. Accommodations range from wood and canvas tents and tiny houses, equipped with heaters and wood stoves for snug nights, and fire pits for s’mores.

Fall weekends are all about storytelling with Papa Joe, maple syrup tastings, yoga, and live music.

Connecticut

New Haven is a crash course in pizza. Home to Yale University, it has all the feels of a small town with plenty of museum and theatre experiences. It is also a solid base for families to stay to explore the foliage in nearby 425-acre East Rock Park with a self-guided nature trail, rose garden and conservatory; giant rock stairs dare for a challenging climb that is rewarded with autumn in all its glory.

The first ever Connecticut Pizza Trail debuts October 1 with the top 100 pizzerias in the Nutmeg State. The big three are New Haven’s Modern Apizza, Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, and Sally’s Apizza, and they date back to the ’20s and ‘30s.

Stay

The Study at Yale

The Study at Yale is a smart choice. It’s just a block from campus and New Haven’s best pizza. The 124 rooms are handsome and bright, some with campus views and a light-filled lobby with books and lots of comfy couches and chairs. The restaurant, Heirloom, is a popular spot for locals, too. 

Mystic is a solid choice with a plum river location and promises a good time for those who love ships and the sea—the busy Mystic Drawbridge right in town delights kids. The village is lined with darling shops, including ice cream, and Mystic Pizza — yes, Julia Robert’s “Mystic Pizza” — it was filmed here. 

The Captain Stannard

For some travelers to New England, a historic New England inn is the ultimate prize. Enter the newly restored The Captain Stannard in Westbrook, built in 1872 with a strong seafaring legacy. Once owned by a sea captain, a boat captain currently steers this ship. It’s about a half hour from Mystic, and ideal for parents with tweens or teens (consider a nice mother/daughter getaway, too) to connect with board games or bike rides. There’s also a lemonade slushie machine on the porch the whole family will love.

Enjoy a complementary continental breakfast before jumping into any foliage explorations. The rooms are designed to evoke a farmhouse vibe, and there are no TVs. It’s a laid-back place with a gazebo for stargazing and the beach a few quick blocks away for salty autumn Long Island Sound sunsets.

The Whaler’s Inn

The Whaler’s Inn is home to the Shipwright’s Daughter which has the best, family-friendly happy hour in New England — the smoked clam dip with chips and deviled eggs with clam strip immediately come to mind. The 45-room hotel is in downtown Mystic and one of the finest in New England. The guest rooms have views of that iconic drawbridge, and the hotel’s new Stanton House boasts river views from deluxe suites with indoor/outdoor fireplaces and private balconies. Drive along Shore Road for autumn scenes, but come back in time for happy hour or dinner.

Rhode Island

Blackstone Valley — trees for days. Bike or hike The Blackstone River Bikeway, a lengthy off-road, tree-lined path that snakes along the Blackstone River (it flows into Massachusetts, too) and Blackstone Canal from Valley Falls to Woonsocket. The trail also shows off the historic mills that played a huge role in the American Industrial Revolution; many Irish immigrants settled here and worked in those mills, including my grandparents.  

Stay

Sitting pretty on the Pawtuxet River in Warwick, a historic mill town with trees that weave gold and red in the fall, The Loom Hotel, Tapestry Collection by Hilton is a chic reimagined industrial hotel that’s a fun spot for families to relish the scenic river, explore the region and take a day trip to Boston on the commuter rail. Parking is also way cheaper at the hotel than it is in Boston. 

Guest rooms with 10-foot ceilings show off the hotel’s textile mill history, as does artwork throughout, and exposed brick and polished concrete floors. Sit outside on the deck that overlooks the tree-lined river that shows off color as vibrant as the threads in the looms woven here.

Massachusetts

Cape Cod

The tiny cranberry tart is feted each autumn at cranberry bogs on the Cape. It is a rock star in muffins, jams, and the Cape Codder (the Cape’s signature sip). 

The pretty town of Harwich introduced the cranberry to the world by producing the first crop for commercial sale in 1846. Visit a bog here in late September or early October when the bogs are flooded; berries float to the surface and the sea of brilliant red is spectacular, especially against the backdrop of foliage and pine trees. 

Some of the bogs have tours and/or gift shops where visitors can buy fresh cranberries for Thanksgiving. Hall’s Cape Cod Cranberries in North Harwich has been growing cranberries here since the mid-1800s (eight generations) and offers tours, fresh cranberries, and gifts. Harwich Cranberry Bog Tours is the oldest bog on the Cape and offers guided tours, but not for young kids; there are also farm animals and a farm store. 

Stay

Inn on the Beach

What’s better than being lulled to sleep by ocean waves and spilling right out of bed onto the beach, kids in their jammies, for an early morning beach walk? The Inn on the Beach in Harwich Port has an enviable location on Bank Street Beach, just a quick ride to those Harwich bogs. It’s a laid-back, meticulously cared for inn with complementary breakfast and fire pits and outdoor lounges. Harwich Port, lined with darling shops and restaurants, is a five-minute walk.

Red Jacket Resorts

Like autumn foliage, Red Jacket Beach Resort Red Jacket Resorts in mid-Cape’s South Yarmouth is a perennial favorite and has been for decades. The fun-loving, beachfront resort is part of a family-friendly portfolio of motel properties, dating to the 60s. After a recent extensive multi-million renovation the property recently debuted with airy, natural light, beach-themed guestrooms with patios overlooking the beach, including family suites, bunk suites, and cottages; a spa with Cape Cod cranberry scrub body treatments; an indoor pool; pickleball courts; and a Sam Adams Beer Garden. Fall asleep to the sounds of the surf and wake to the sun rising over the sea. 

Boston

Boston celebrates autumn like no other New England town.

The population swells by a quarter-million college students each September, and the youthful energy is as invigorating as the crisp air. There’s also Oktoberfest in Harvard Square, The Head of the Charles Regatta (the world’s largest regatta) in October, and fall at Fenway Park is unforgettable magic. Fenway is the oldest ballpark in the country, dating to 1932, and pivots to celebrate the autumn season by adding steamy clam chowder to the roster for those chilly night games.

Also, one of the coolest family-friendly dining experiences in Boston is the Bleacher Bar. The restaurant sits beneath Fenway’s bleachers with a huge garage door window giving diners a peek at all the ballgame action in the outfield. Score a Bleacher Burger, watch the action, without paying a penny for a game ticket. 

Aside from the autumnal experiences in the city itself (biking along the Charles River, strolling Beacon Hill), there are lots of nearby pursuits for day trips. Salem is known for Halloween but celebrates the whole month of October with its Haunted Happenings festivities.

It’s nearly impossible to score a hotel room at this point or, if available, room rates can be otherworldly. But the witchy city is just to the north of Boston, only a half-hour direct train ride from Boston, and the station is right in town.

Stay

Omni Parker House

The Omni Parker House has had more autumns than any other hotel in the country. The historic beauty dates to 1855 and is the oldest continuously operating hotel in the U.S. The hotel has hosted everyone, from Ulysses. S. Grant to Charles Dickens, and just completed a lengthy, multi-million-dollar renovation including its 551 elegant guest rooms.

It sits on the Freedom Trail, the perfect opportunity to fit in a guided tour or self-guided amble. Autumn is pie season, and Boston Cream Pie was invented here (and it’s on the menu).

The Revere Hotel

Home to the largest rooftop in the city, with a rooftop lobster and clam bake later this month, the The Revere Hotel (shout-out to Paul) is a cool place for families, especially tweens and teens who appreciate its hip vibe. (The motto here is “unleash your inner rebel.”) The suites are spacious, all rooms have balconies, and its Back Bay location is a quick walk to The Boston Public Garden and Boston Common where the trees show their true colors each autumn.

The Whitney Hotel

The Whitney Hotel, an intimate boutique property, sits at the one end of Charles Street, Boston’s prettiest street on Beacon Hill. There are views of the Charles River from some guest rooms, and the Public Garden is a lovely stroll straight down Charles Street. You can also go the other way to bike or walk along the Charles River for miles. There’s a sweet courtyard (one of Boston’s best kept secrets) for a bite and cocktails; the on-site restaurant Peregrine just debuted a fall menu, with treats like Chatham Bay Cod giving a nod to Cape Cod.

Spacious Skies Minute Man

For an immersive foliage experience remarkably close to Boston, check out Spacious Skies Minute Man, a camping/glamping spot in nearby Littleton. The maple, birch, ash and oak trees color the campground for family nature walks. It’s a more affordable option than hotels in this neck of the woods and an easy 30-ish minute drive from Boston (or you can take the commuter rail). Stay in a cozy cabin or tent, though it’s also a popular RV campground. There’s also a camp store for snacks and goodies, alongside outdoor heated pool.

Vermont

The Taconic Mountain range is on the map for mind-bending foliage scenes. Manchester is one of the region’s towns and a perfect spot to spend a couple days exploring the area’s highlights, including one of its largest bookstores: Northshire Bookstore. Northshire is a New England staple, where the leaves of books are just as important as the foliage this time of year. Kids run up the curved staircase to the inviting children’s section and there’s a cafe, too. 

Stay

The Kimpton Taconic Hotel partners with Northshire and is within walking or biking distance. Cozy up in front of the fireplace in the hotel’s library complete with titles that are recommended by Northshire’s staff, and available on-loan. Make time to sit on the heated porch during complimentary early evening daily social hour with a Vermont IPA, a good read, and new friends.

New Hampshire

While the White Mountains are glorious in the fall, they are also crowded; the Kancamagus Highway is especially packed with visitors. Branch out! You’ll find many other brag-worthy spots in The Granite State to experience fall, with fun diversions for kids and perhaps a visit to those mountains on a day trip, if tempted. 

Exeter, in southern New Hampshire, is a good pick for apples and nature with a river running through it. Downtown, the Exeter River hooks up with the Squamscott River featuring restaurants and cafes that overlook the river for foliage views. 

Also, explore the Little River Traill at Little River Conservation and The Swasey Parkway, another popular riverside trail. Exeter is home to Phillips Exeter Academy, and the campus has a necklace of trails with autumn on display. Of course, autumn means apple season! Visit one of the best apples picking spots in New England: Cider Hill Farm in nearby Amesbury, Massachusetts. If you’re trying to fit in a number of regional spots, Boston is a train ride away, with Salem a quick broomstick-fly from Exeter.

Stay

Families looking to connect with a quintessential New England inn with strong ties to U.S. history, check into Inn by the Bandstand in downtown Exeter. It’s an elegant Federal-style boutique inn, built in 1809, directly across from the bandstand where the oldest brass band in America plays every July. The inn was originally built for George Sullivan, a lawyer/statesman whose father was a general and friend of George Washington. There are only eight guest rooms with curated artwork and antiques, and most have a fireplace, ideal for chilly New Hampshire nights. There’s an on-site restaurant, Ambrose, named after an Exeter philanthropist, and a lovely living room and a tranquil garden, too.

Autumn in New England

By now, it should be no secret: New England is the place to be if you’re looking for a trip to embrace the fall season. While these are surely some of the best autumn activities the region has to offer, it hardly scratches the surface. Plan ahead, but be open to wherever the wind takes you! It’s likely that you and your traveling companions will find ample fall fun to explore right there in the moment.

Whatever you get into, New England will treat you right during this season of transformation!

Photos by Laurie Bain Wilson

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About the Author: Laurie Bain Wilson’s work has appeared in Real Simple, Working Mother, OpenTable, PBS/Next Avenue, Travel Channel, CNN Travel, Travel Market Report, Eat This, Chowhound, Parents, Salon, Wine Enthusiast, VinePair, and New York Times. She is also a longtime correspondent at The Boston Globe. Find more from Laurie at weekendsandcupcakes.com and her Muckrack profile.